Tourism in the Faroe Islands is poised to reach unprecedented heights this year, as travelers are encouraged to explore the archipelago’s tranquil backroads and newly opened sub-sea tunnels.
Just minutes beyond Sørvágur village on Vágar island, the road edged towards a sheer cliff above the ocean, marked by a distinctive signpost adorned with a bright-yellow flower on a green backdrop. This flower, the marsh marigold, symbolizes the Faroe Islands and thrives amidst Europe’s strongest winds where trees cannot. Known locally as sóljuleiðir, it paints the landscapes with vibrant hues on grassy slopes and cliff tops.
These signs beckon travelers away from main highways to the enchanting “Buttercup Routes,” offering a blend of leisurely travel akin to “Driving Miss Daisy” meets the dramatic allure of Middle-earth from “Lord of the Rings.” The Faroese Ministry of Transport has mapped out 13 such routes across the islands, each promising a scenic journey away from bustling tourist paths. With tourism steadily increasing – currently attracting around 100,000 visitors annually, double the local population – these routes aim not only to ease traffic congestion but also to immerse road trippers in the serene beauty of North Atlantic island life.
Over five days, I traversed eight of these Soljuleiðir routes, discovering that the scenic detours were always worth the extra time. The inaugural Buttercup Route, Gásadalsleið, led me through a dark mountain tunnel to Múlafossur waterfall near Gásadalur village. From the cliff’s edge overlooking the cascading waters, I marveled at the panoramic view towards Mykines, the westernmost isle, shrouded in mist and mystical charm.
Despite their brevity – some as short as a 15-minute drive – these routes encapsulate the quintessence of Faroese beauty: expansive ocean vistas, jagged mountain peaks, delicate waterfalls, and roads clinging daringly to cliff sides. Spanning from 3.8 km to 19.5 km, these itineraries unveil hidden treasures like ocean-plunging waterfalls, tranquil lakes, and valleys where sheep, with their wind-swept, rock-star looks, far outnumber inhabitants.
One standout route, Saksunarleið, winds to Saksun village on Streymoy island, culminating at a turf-roofed church and inlet where the sea whispers between sheer cliffs. Another, on Eysturoy island, snakes above Funningsfjørður fjord, framed by rugged peaks, before descending to the picturesque harbor village of Gjógv. Here, I stood mesmerized by the dragon-scale ridges of Kalsoy island across the channel, a sight seldom found on conventional journeys.
Recently, the Faroe Islands elevated the art of road tripping with the introduction of the scenic Buttercup Routes and the inauguration of the Sandoyartunnilin sub-sea tunnel in December 2023. This 10.8 km engineering marvel, linking Streymoy and Sandoy islands that were once separated by a 30-minute ferry ride, now enhances access to these scenic routes, reduces travel time, and enhances the overall road trip experience. Descending more than 150 meters below sea level, Sandoyartunnilin is distinguished not only by its depth but also by a unique art installation adorning its tunnel walls. Folkloric in style, the installation features neon depictions of Catholic knights, seals, birds, and other symbols, paying homage to Faroese heritage. Accompanied by an ethereal soundtrack composed by local artist Sunleif Rasmussen, the tunnel transforms the journey into a captivating experience for visitors, evoking a sense of history and wonder beneath the Atlantic Ocean.
According to Teitur Samuelsen, CEO of the tunnel, this artistic endeavor aims to celebrate Faroese culture and create an unexpected journey for travelers. Reflecting on the island’s artistic legacy, he highlighted how the tunnel honors painter Díðrikur á Skarvanesi, a native of Sandoy whose motifs of moon pigeons adorn the tunnel’s walls, breaking the monotony of the journey with storytelling and artistic depth.
The tunnel has also revitalized local communities, offering new opportunities beyond traditional livelihoods like agriculture. Helga Hilmarsdóttir, a resident of Sandoy, expressed optimism about the tunnel’s impact, noting its role in fostering tourism and new economic ventures. Her family plans to open guest rooms, becoming the first accommodation providers in Dalur village. They also participate in “heimablídni,” inviting visitors to share traditional Faroese meals in their home, fostering cultural exchange and learning.
Another significant tunnel, Eysturoyartunnilin, opened in December 2020, connecting Streymoy and Eysturoy islands via an 11.24 km route featuring the Atlantic’s only underwater roundabout. This abstract marvel, envisioned as a landmark akin to Big Ben or the Eiffel Tower, showcases an art installation by Tróndur Patursson at its geographic center. Steel figures interlocked in solidarity, gazing towards the light, symbolize unity and hope in a place where land and sea converge.
The Faroe Islands’ burgeoning tourism, buoyed by scenic Buttercup Routes and innovative sub-sea tunnels, promises travelers a journey rich in natural beauty, cultural immersion, and unforgettable experiences. As visitors explore these remote isles, they not only discover breathtaking landscapes but also contribute to the sustainable growth of local communities, forging lasting connections and memories amidst the rugged allure of the North Atlantic.
